Lima, Peru: Tour D'Horizon

nunca es tarde para aprender

By Christina Nguyen

June 26^th, 2018

Month 9

Lima is a gorgeous colonial city that sits in a fog for most of the year above a long coastline of crumbling cliffs. The Pacific waves, and noisy traffic reminds you of Southern California, but with a Latin American flare. It is a sophisticated city with roots, and a civilization that goes back nearly five centuries. It is one of the oldest cities in the Americas with a multicultural vibe, and unique fusions that keeps your senses heightened, and constantly eager to explore more.

experiences

The Fun Stuff

Living in a 3-bedroom apartment in Miraflores with the Peruvian Popcorn Crew
Working out of the Comunal co-working office
Riding bikes along the Pacific coast
Making dumplings with the Misses of Mangata, and honoring Joan's late grandmother
Driving ATVs through the Pisco Vineyards at Sarcay
Discovering exotic fruits, and veggies from the Andes Mountains & juicing them
Learning about the Japanese influence on Peruvian culture, and making Nikkei cuisine
Watching the World Cup in South America, and cheering on Peru with the locals
Exploring the different neighborhoods that make up Lima's vibrant city
Investing in me time at the beautifully designed Oasis Holistico center
Meeting a Hungarian solo traveler at the Basilica and Convent of San Francisco, discovering it was his 67th birthday, and celebrating with travel stories & Pisco Sours
Checking out the Huaca Pullcana ruins in Lima
Having friends, and family come visit for a full week
Taking a Ceviche cooking class in Cusco
Hiking the beautiful Rainbow Mountain at 17,000 feet above sea level
Visiting Macchu Picchu, and journeying through the Sacred Valley
Dancing the night away at Bulbo Fiesto on the rooftop of a colonial government building

The Not As Fun Stuff

Feeling confused that I was experiencing winter in June
Seeing the sun once while living in Lima
Playing Frogger while crossing the street because drivers are ruthless here

Juicing Andean veggies at Oasis Holistico.

Huaca Pullcna ruins in Lima with my brother.

stories

Finding the right travel companions is like finding the holy grail. Travel buddies can completely make, or break a trip. I've been very blessed to have an entire posse who make exploring the world a breeze. I was lucky to have a group of seven come visit from the states. The 'Peru Crew' respect each other's interests, have a mutual love for good food, are open to new experiences, and can laugh through anything (like a 3-day trip delay due to an expired passport #randyyy).

After spending a few days in Lima, we flew to the ancient Inca capital of Cusco just as the city was preparing for the Inti Raymi Festival of the Sun. Colorful garment, festive decorations, and dancing Peruvians filled every street corner. The altitude is no joke there so we decided to spend two days there to acclimate before our treks. Cusco is filled with narrow cobblestone streets, fine boutiques selling alpaca knits, and Peruvian women dressed in traditional skirts walking around with their pet llamas.

On the third day of our side trip we were picked up at 2AM to head towards the Andes for a sunrise hike to Rainbow Mountain. This undiscovered land is full of wildly desert landscapes, snow capped glacial peeks, herds of alpaca, and pristine beauty. Colored minerals form painted hills hidden deep inside the Andes. The summit gives you a 360 degree view of the stunning landscape that makes up the sacred land.

On our last day, we boarded the first train on the Peru Rail due north to Aguas Calientes aka Machu Picchu Pueblo. This little town lies deep in a gorge below the ruins that is reminiscent of a gold rush town. Just a short bus ride uphill beyond the stone cliffs is the ancient civilization of Machu Picchu. Seeing this sight at first glance leaves you completely mystified, and intrigued which is a theme that continues as you learn about the history, and roots of the ruins. The Temple of the Sun, Temple of the Three Windows, Temple of the Condor, the Sun Gate, and the Intihuatana rock all tell incredible stories of what took place centuries ago, and how life was lived. The precision of the buildings, and architecture reveals how advanced the Incas were. This civilization was virtually forgotten, and lost until the early part of the 20th century. I'm incredibly grateful to have had the opportunity to visit one of the best-known archaeological sites on this continent. The grandeur coupled with the mystery makes it a must visit in Peru for a trek into a colorful, and interesting history.

Big thank you to my family, and friends who came to visit! Peru just wouldn't be the same without you all!

Preparing for Festival of the Sun in Cusco.

Connections

This month was all about culinary connections. Lima is part of a gastronomical revolution, and it's impossible to visit without being completely drawn into the culinary arts. I learned about Anthony Bourdain's passing while living in Lima. He has been a huge influence on my love for food, cooking, and curiosity to explore ingredients from around the world. I made it a goal to visit as many places that Bourdain visited while in Peru, and embrace the copious amount of good food.

What really stands out about Peruvian cuisine is the incredible biodiversity that exists in Peru. To the west you have desert-like coasts that intersect with the Pacific Ocean. To the north you have the Amazon with lush rain forests. And to the interior of South America you have the highest mountain ranges in the world, the Andes. The abundance of exotic local ingredients makes it a mecca for chefs, and food enthusiasts. Flavors from the various regions mixed with innovation, and techniques brought by migrants creates a culinary fusion that is unlike any other.

The nation practices some of the most ancient cooking techniques on the world, and Lima serves as a melting pot of contrasting regions. Ceviche, and Pisco Sours are a country-wide obsession. I had the pleasure of taking a ceviche cooking class, and a private pisco sour making session with some locals. Fresh ingredients, and simple techniques make these staples stand out with flavor, and texture.

With all of my favorite foodie friends visiting, I was able to knock off three off the World's 50 Best Restaurant list. Virgilio Martinez from (#6) Central took us through a colorful journey of every altitude exploring Peru's biodiversity. Mitsuharu Tsumura from (#7) Maido introduced us to the world of "Nikkei" cuisine, which is the perfect marriage of Japanese, and Peruvian gastronomy for a mind-blowing affect. Gaston Acurio from (#39) Astrid y Gaston is one of Latin America's greatest chefs, and his work is an exemplary representation of modern Peruvian cuisine upholding every element that is true to Peru. Every restaurant completely blew me away with the art of possibility, and often leaving me speechless basking in the experience. However, you also can't overlook the farmer's markets, street-side stalls, and solo vendors that are sprinkled in every single direction. The array of food as bizarre, and colorful as the surroundings make dining anywhere in Peru a very special experience.

Giant Amazonian Snails from amaZ restaurante as seen from Anthony Bourdain's Parts Unknown.

Amazonian Waters Piranha Araza Yuca Root from Central Restaurante. The Best Restaurant in South America & Number 6 Best in the World.

A Lo Pobre Style Nigiri from Maido. Thinly sliced angus beef, and quail egg injected ponzu.

Red Rocks Piure Percebe Clams from Central Restaurante

owning the unknown

I loved my time in Peru. It is hands down one of my favorite countries thus far in my travels. I only had the chance to spend time in Cusco, and Lima which just doesn't do this country justice. This is a place of mythical beliefs, strong spiritual connections, and a liveliness that has never felt more real, and visceral.

Peru's rich cultural heritage is very apparent, the history is potent, and the energy is pulsating. There's more exotic ingredients to be discovered, traditions to be learned, and soaring peaks to be conquered. There is no doubt that I will be returning to explore the other hidden gems of Peru.