Córdoba, Argentina: Tour D'Horizon

donde hay gana, hay maña

By Christina Nguyen

April 30^th, 2018

Month 8

This month we stayed in Argentina, and headed Northwest towards the Central Sierras. Córdoba is about half the size of Buenos Aires, but has a vastly different personality with a very relaxed way of life. It is also home to the country's oldest surviving university with a vibrant population of students. The city is a fascinating mix of old, and new. You can find 17th century Jesuit ruins alongside modern art galleries which makes it a fun place to discover. The city's old soul is brought alive with a new spirit. Here is the run down on month 8...

Rueda Eiffel in Cordoba, an antique iron ferris wheel.

Experiences

THE FUN STUFF

Rooming with Chatfield, a science fiction and LitRPG author.
Working out of La Maquinita co-working space
Drinking all the Malbec from Mendoza.
Seeing a Queen cover band in concert.
Getting a private dining experience, and sneak peak before the grand opening of a highly anticipated new restaurant.
Learning the art of cocktail making, and urban gardening with seasoned mixologists.
Taking a photojournalism workshop with a crew from the local media outlet.
Hiking the Central Sierras on a bright beautiful Saturday afternoon after 2 weeks of rain.

THE NOT AS FUN STUFF

Cash is king here, and most places do not take cards which often leads to VERY long lines at the ATM.
Crooked sidewalks constantly keeping you on edge.
The stray dog population is astounding, and sad.

Cooking on an Argentina wood-fire grill.

Stories

On an early Saturday morning we made a drive 2.5 hours Southwest of Córdoba towards the Sierras Grande. Situated among the spruce, and pine is a tiny little picturesque village called La Cumbrecita. This area was populated by central European immigrants in the 1930's, and is a completely pedestrian-only town that is very reminiscent of a 15th century German/Swiss village. We spent our day hiking up through the town, then down to the valley to a hidden waterfall, and back through to the peak for a panoramic view of the Calamuchita Valley.

I've never hiked anything like the Sierras Grande. It is a solitude of mountains with crystal-clear rivers, and streams. The area was wild, rich with refreshing clean air, and many opportunities to take in the quiet moments. It was a much needed day of tranquility, and trekking through the wilderness. It was a beautiful opportunity to observe where nature, and the hand of man have managed to maintain balance.

Hiking in the Sierras Grande with a local dog who followed us for 6 hours.

Hiking to a hidden waterfall in the Sierras Grande.

Connections

This is the first time where we stayed put in one country, and experienced two different cities. Getting to observe the regional distinctions of such a large country was unique, and reminded me that you cannot judge a country or the people by one city experience. This month was all about connecting to the people.

Argentinians are passionate people with some intense characteristics. They're energetic on conversation topics such as politics, futbol, food, and their national heroes. The folks from Buenos Aires are referred to as "porteños" and the ones from Córdoba are called "cordobeses." I didn't feel as connected to Argentina until I spent time with the cordobeses.

...What's unique about this group?

The cordobeses have a very particular accent that is a slow melody that's usually accompanied with enthusiasm, and overly dramatic hand gestures. This made communication a bit easier to decipher even when I had no clue what they were saying. However, my weekly Spanish lessons are paying off! Whether it was standing in line at the butcher, or in a serious conversation the cordobeses always had a special ability to make a quick, witty, funny remark in every situation. They were so incredibly friendly, open to foreigners, and always wanted to strike up a genuine conversation.

You know you're officially welcomed when you have been offered mate. Here's a quick summary if you're unsure of what a mate experience is. A group of friends will share a beverage together, literally. Everyone drinks out of the same cup with the same metal straw called a bombilla. One person sets up the mate by placing the straw in the cup, adding the mate, filling it with warm water, and testing it to see if it is ready to be shared. It is then passed around to be shared during conversations. Mate is kind of falls between tea, and coffee. It is made from dried leaves, and has a more bitter flavor but also contains caffeine similar to coffee. Cordobeses absolutely love their mate, and carry their mate essentials wherever they go. To share a mate with someone is to connect, talk, share, laugh, and enjoy the company of others.

Chef Luciano sharing his other passions.

Photojournalist Deborah, and RY experience manager Coti sharing stories over mate.

Owning the Unknown

The Southern hemisphere showered us with cool fall weather which made for a cozy month. Córdoba is a laid back city which made it easy to slow down, establish routine, and enjoy the simple things. This month was by far the most low key month I've had since traveling, and I really needed it. I got back into the essentials to keeping me grounded. I'm feeling pretty optimistic about the rest of our South American adventures!

Footnotes

"Donde hay gana, hay maña" is a Spanish proverb meaning "where there is desire, there is ability." Cover photo taken at La Cumbrecita by Griffin Glaze.

Button Label

FootNotes

"Donde hay gana, hay maña" is a Spanish proverb meaning "where there is desire, there is ability." Cover photo taken at La Cumbrecita by Griffin Glaze.